The joy of surfing

I surfed for the first time almost 4 years ago.  I didn’t grow up close to the ocean, so I’m not a person who feels totally comfortable in it.  Up to that moment, I had never been very aquatic.  Nevertheless, I like being in the water, I like sports, and, most importantly, I like a challenge.  So one cold November morning in Lima, my boyfriend at the time had the brilliant idea to go surfing.  I went along, sleepy and cold, nervous and excited at the same time.  A group meets for lessons at 5:30am in the coast of Lima.  I put on the wetsuit, followed the warm-up routine and listened to a brief explanation by the instructor.  We went in, water was freezing, waves were big, and I started paddling out, with a lot of respect for the ocean and its power.  Did I mention the big waves?  I had never done this, and there I was, for the first time, in a pretty rough ocean trying to catch my first wave.  I warmed up quickly, it was a combination of the paddling and the nerves. Trying to paddle past the waves breaking was the toughest part.  I swallowed so much water, but kept going.  Then, the time came to give it a try, Harold, the instructor, put me in position and showed me the wave I was supposed to surf.  I started paddling hard, he pushed me a bit, and there I was, catching my first wave.  I stood-up on the board and rode it all the way to the shore.  I know I had a huge smile on my face, the same smile I have every time I get a chance to surf.  What a great morning that was!!!  I surfed a few more waves, so excited by my accomplishment.  It was a sense pride, happiness, invincibility.  Never, in my wildest dreams, did I think I was going to be surfing.

Ever since, I’ve surfed a few more times.  Twice more in Peru, and a handful of times in Costa Rica.  The water is completely different in these two places.  Even though I’ve surfed in the Pacific Ocean in Costa Rica, it’s definitely not the same.  The waves in Peru are big, I mean….big, and the water is cold.  Costa Rica is much warmer, calmer (at least where I’ve been), so nice to surf in just a bikini.  Costa Rica is also much closer to Miami, it’s warm all year-round, and I have a great friend who I try to visit as much as possible…and the fact that she surfs is a plus!!

The feeling I get when I get in the water with my board is absolutely incredible.  There’s an instant smile on my face, whether I catch 10 waves or none at all.  Sitting on the board, looking at the horizon waiting for the next wave, such tranquility.  Spotting the wave and trying to ride it, the thrill of paddling, worried about having the right timing, and finally getting up, such rush. I love everything about it (except the stories every now and then about sharks), I love the people, the culture, the places.  I love being in the ocean as early in the morning as possible, the glass water, the perfectly organized sets of waves, the sun coming up, the fresh air.  It puts things into perspective, it allows me to appreciate life even more, to value the little things.

I’m so glad that, 4 years ago, I decided (with some encouragement) to wake up at 5am on a cold morning in Lima, and give surfing a try.  Life is about getting out of your comfort zone. You might be surprised with the outcome, you might actually fall in love with it.  I wish I could surf more often…still, I’m thankful I can do it every chance I get.  I feel lucky to have “Surfing” high up in my list of favorite things to do!!!